|
|
Hello and thank you for visiting AikiWeb, the
world's most active online Aikido community! This site is home to
over 22,000 aikido practitioners from around the world and covers a
wide range of aikido topics including techniques, philosophy, history,
humor, beginner issues, the marketplace, and more.
If you wish to join in the discussions or use the other advanced
features available, you will need to register first. Registration is
absolutely free and takes only a few minutes to complete so sign up today!
|
12-12-2000, 08:19 PM
|
#1
|
Join Date: Jun 2000
Posts: 563
Offline
|
well, it finally happened. My red oak bokken showed its $15 price tag after 10 months tonight... it finally splitnered, noticed after the class. Can anyone recommend a good (preferably on the not so expensive side) bokken? I'd like probably a shiro kashi or maple bokken, perhaps even hickory.
Thanks,
Nick
|
|
|
|
12-13-2000, 12:27 AM
|
#2
|
Dojo: Aiki O'Kami Society
Location: Daytona Bch, Fl
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 19
Offline
|
I can't recomend any particular brand or wood type to you. (I got my current bokken at a yard sale)
However I can offer you this advice to you.
You get what you pay for.
Later
|
|
|
|
12-13-2000, 04:24 AM
|
#3
|
Dojo: University of Ulster, Coleriane
Location: Northern Ireland
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,654
Offline
|
I was just about to get a nice boken myself which was on order, but I was a day late picking it up and they sold it to someone else - so I can't tell you how good it is.
Timing is everything!
Ian
|
|
|
|
12-13-2000, 05:38 AM
|
#4
|
Dojo: Lunds Aikidoklubb
Location: Lund, Sweden
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 273
Offline
|
Hi Nick!
My bokken went for about 50$ and if that is not to expensive for you than I strongly recomend Japanese White Oak. This one is not sharp if you know what I mean but instead has a fairly round cutting edge, which makes it even more durable against direct hit. More over It's little heavier than the averege our dojo and is prefered be people who have trained weapon a while, since it give you more responce, compared to light ones.
My 1$ and a ½.
Jakob B
|
Jakob Blomquist
|
|
|
12-13-2000, 09:50 AM
|
#5
|
Join Date: Jun 2000
Posts: 563
Offline
|
Jakob:
Where did you get your bokken?
Nick
|
|
|
|
12-13-2000, 10:03 AM
|
#6
|
Dojo: Lunds Aikidoklubb
Location: Lund, Sweden
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 273
Offline
|
Quote:
Nick wrote:
Jakob:
Where did you get your bokken?
Nick
|
Sorry to say I got in a Swedish MA-store and I beleave they got got them from Japan
But anyway, Japanese White Oak is very good and not that expensive!
Jakob B
|
Jakob Blomquist
|
|
|
12-13-2000, 10:13 AM
|
#7
|
Join Date: Jun 2000
Posts: 6,049
Offline
|
If you're in the US, try contacting Kiyota Company in Baltimore, MD. They sell nice white oak bokken from Japan priced very reasonably. I've been happy with the weapons that I've bought from them in the past.
You can find their contact information at:
http://www.aikiweb.com/supplies/suppliers/
-- Jun
|
|
|
|
12-20-2000, 01:01 PM
|
#8
|
Dojo: Cape Cod Aikido Kenkyukai 541 Thomas Landers Rd., East Falmouth
Location: Cape Cod, MA
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 30
Offline
|
swords
I use the kashimashin-ryu style sword, which is white oak, and I get them from Kiyota Company. That sword is a little cumbersome for suburi. Try Kingfisher Woodworks in VT for a great composite rosewood sword for suburi practice. They are a little more but worth it. It's x-mas just ask Santa.
|
|
|
|
12-20-2000, 02:09 PM
|
#9
|
Dojo: Berkshire Hills Aikido, MA
Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 70
Offline
|
Well,
Two bits of advice,
One, of course, would be to e-mail me as I make them at a reasonable price. Style of blade can be chosen from two styles, one slightly straighter than the other. Materials range from Ipe, a hard brazilian wood, quite strong and heavy, to maple or hickory, even ash if I can get a good piece. My Ash supplier has been a little short lately.
e-mail to niadh@taconic.net
2. Read the ATM article about woods for bokken written by ?? from Kingfisher woodworks. It is on this forum somewhere.
3. ( ok I lied) I bought a nice jo from these people. It was well made and the price was right. Unfortunately I can't find the link. Mine is no longer affective. But the company is Kemco supply, in PA. Sorry I can't help on this more. They must have closed their website.
[Edited by Niadh on December 20, 2000 at 02:12pm]
|
Non Satis Scire
Niadh Feathers
|
|
|
12-20-2000, 03:57 PM
|
#10
|
Join Date: Jun 2000
Posts: 563
Offline
|
thanks to everyone for their replies. I ordered a white oak daito from the Kiyota company Monday- it should be here by the end of the week.
Thanks again,
Nick
|
|
|
|
12-20-2000, 05:11 PM
|
#11
|
Dojo: Berkshire Hills Aikido, MA
Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 70
Offline
|
Happy Holidays Nick.
A Great present to yourself.
Neil
|
Non Satis Scire
Niadh Feathers
|
|
|
12-20-2000, 05:46 PM
|
#12
|
Join Date: Jun 2000
Posts: 563
Offline
|
Neil-
I would have ordered from you, had I seen your post sooner. Perhaps when this one breaks, neh?
Happy Hanukkah, all .
(oh, and I spose merry christmas and happy new year)...
Nick
|
|
|
|
12-20-2000, 08:37 PM
|
#13
|
Dojo: Berkshire Hills Aikido, MA
Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 70
Offline
|
Nick
Thanks for the thought. I wish you the best of luck with this bokken, and hope it has a long and healthy life.
Neil
|
Non Satis Scire
Niadh Feathers
|
|
|
01-13-2001, 11:15 AM
|
#14
|
Location: Philadelphia
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 3
Offline
|
I couldn't tell you where to buy one because as a custom woodworker I make everything myself. I once made a full size automobile with all wooden parts. It had wooden wheels, wooden gears and pistons, wooden hoses and a wooden battery. Unfortunately it wooden start.
All levity aside, one thing of importance when purchasing or making wooden weapons is that wood has a grain pattern due to the annual growth rings, branches, etc. When wood is sawn it normally gets cut through these grain lines. This causes a compromise in structural integrity. In order to have a superior weapon the wood must be split along the grain. This way the wood will show you along which lines it is the strongest, and the chances of the final product splitting are minimized. The best way to do this is with a froe and mallet (available through most specialty woodworking stores), but it also works to start a split in the end of a log and then complete the split with the axe held with the handle parallel to and the head intersecting the length of the log. Then just gradually pry the wood apart.
Ben Nagy
[Edited by Ben on January 13, 2001 at 01:20pm]
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
Similar Threads
|
Thread |
Thread Starter |
Forum |
Replies |
Last Post |
Injuries inevitable? |
daniel chong |
General |
15 |
06-02-2004 07:37 AM |
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:43 AM.
|
vBulletin Copyright © 2000-2024 Jelsoft Enterprises Limited
Copyright 1997-2024 AikiWeb and its Authors, All Rights Reserved.
For questions and comments about this website:
Send E-mail
|
|