Re: Bujin Women's Hakama
I had one and it fit the "curves" very well. My understanding was that the way the pleats were set was not traditional, but they helped keep the hakama relatively unwrinkled (I had the 100% cotton) and to maintain its form. And it was fairly easy to fold despite the heavyweight fabric.
My build was stocky back when I was using the hakama (I've lost some weight and have gotten kind of wiry over the past year, so it likely wouldn't fit as well anymore if I still had it). Bujin did a great job tailoring it to spec, and it fit very well when I was using it.
The koshita had some kind of hard but flexible board in it, not rubber. Maybe plastic. It was firm enough to fit to the small of the back, but wasn't brittle or too rigid.
I never cared much for wearing a hakama and don't miss wearing one... never got comfortable in it ... but as hakamas go, the Bujin was a pretty good one.