My first hak was Bujin women's hak in cotton poly blend. It fit ok, it held its pleats very well, I did NOT like the "hand" (feel) of the fabric.
My second hak I made of a brushed cotton twill. It fit perfectly, it had a drape and feel to die for, and didn't hold pleats at all.
My third hak is Mugendo Budogo's tetron hak. Though I'm a round and hippy woman, it fits just fine--as well as the Bujin did. It holds its pleats in a death grip and I much prefer the feel of it to the cotton poly.
Third time's the charm, at least for me.