thanks, I will send Carol an email.
Even when patterns, like the one from Folkwear, just have measurement instructions I would like to get them because I calculated the whole pattern from my ankle to waist measurement and the proportions of the Dagorhir Pattern. It works well, when I measured some lines afterwards, deviation was less than 1/4 inch. But since there are already some people at my dojo who would like to get a new and better fitting hakama, I would like to be able to know where and how to measure for individual patterns.
If you use a light material, you'll probably have to sew the pleats (inner and outer ones) full lenght to keep them well. Additionally, I would double sew and strenghten some sensitive areas as the side v-openings. I've already seen some spectacular "undressing" when people caught their foot in a light hakama during ukemi and ripped it.
Be careful with heavy cloth. Since you end up having multiple layers on the top pf the hakama, make sure your sewing machine can handle it (try jeans or leather needles when having problems).
As for colors and prints, I think every dark color is o.K. I saw some girls in beautiful dark red hakamas on seminars and am thinking about making myself one in dark violet since it's my favourite color.
And..um..er.. yes, my new hakama has a unusual print but it's a special running gag at our dojo, soooo....And since it's on the light side, too (I thought that that would make it easier for a first try....WRONG!!), I'll probably use it only at the iaido lessons and the beach training.