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lenna 12-08-2004 09:06 PM

splinters and dents in bokken
I am a beginner in Aikido and I just had one of my first class times using the bokken :dead: . Due to my incredibly bad form, after class I asked my class mates where I could acquire a affordable bokken to practice at home with. I was given a slightly beaten up bokken that needs repair. I was told to sand it and oil it or put some kind of wood protector on it. But there are big deep 'scratches' left from big splinters :uch: . Should I just sand inside it so it doesn't catch anything or fill it in with like saw dust and wood glue. The biggest 'scratch' is 2 1\2 centimeters long and 4 millimeters wide.

Shipley 12-08-2004 10:25 PM

Re: splinters and dents in bokken
Hi Colleen,

Just sand it out so that there isn't a new place to start a splinter (ie sand out all of the cracks, and make everything pointy nice and smooth). Filling back in rarely works as the filler tends to just pop out again. The finish I like to use is 2 parts linseed oil to two parts tung oil to one part beeswax, heat it gently until the beeswax melts and you can mix it all together, then rub it in with a rag with enough friction to keep everything warm and work it well into the wood.

Hope this helps,


ian 12-09-2004 04:40 AM

Re: splinters and dents in bokken
Wet the dented bits with boiling water (this will expand the wood), when dry, sand it. (you need to prevent splinters when you are 'drawing' the bokken. Make sure there are no large splits - if there are, do not use it for paired weapon work ('cos bits fly off it and hit people in the eye!)

Oiling it will protect it slightly, but do not oil the handle (will give you blisters - natural grease from your hands will keep handle in good shape)

ChristianBoddum 12-09-2004 07:07 AM

Re: splinters and dents in bokken
You can dissolve some wood glue (water based) in some water and apply it where there may be cracks, be generous - let it soak ,dry for 24 hours , then sand and oil.
This way nasty surprises should be prevented.

Yours - Chr.B.

Bronson 12-09-2004 01:15 PM

Re: splinters and dents in bokken
Or you could just go here and get one for $6.45 U.S. + shipping.


Bronson 12-09-2004 01:21 PM

Re: splinters and dents in bokken
Hey Colleen,

I just noticed you train at the Toyoda Center, is this the Toyoda Center in Grand Rapids MI? From what I've seen of their weapons work you may want to forego the red oak weapons and get at least a japanese white oak one.

The same place has one for $16.00 a little further down the page. It's not the best but it's enough to start and you can get a nicer one later.


p.s. If you're ever down in Kalamazoo or Battle Creek stop in and train...assuming you're in Michigan :D

lenna 12-09-2004 02:52 PM

Re: splinters and dents in bokken
Hey guys thanks for all the advice and getting it posted so fast. Yep Bronson thats the place. If I ever get the chance I'll drop by for sure.

lenna 12-28-2004 10:35 AM

Re: splinters and dents in bokken
Ok 2 questions guys. Um I finally finished sanding my bokken yesterday and it felt great. It was totally smooth but I saw a thin layer of saw dust on it so i got a lightly damp wash cloth and quick wiped it down, but then it got like rough again. I had to re sand it cause there was all kinds of little splinters all over it.Do you know why that happened? I got it smooth again so I ran to the hardware store and bought tung oil finish. Now that I'm home I read to container and it says it has a gloss and says 'A premium protective varnish for classic, hand - rubbed beauty' Is it a varnish? Did I buy the wrong stuff?

Bronson 12-28-2004 12:01 PM

Re: splinters and dents in bokken
Lots of good stuff on oiling weapons in This Thread.

IMO if the bokken is that bad buy a new one, use it then donate it to the dojo when you buy another/better one.


ChristianBoddum 12-28-2004 02:17 PM

Re: splinters and dents in bokken
Hi !
You could ask a cabinetmaker ,if you know one , to show you how to do it smartest -
(I am by the way - but I can't show you)
normally you sand until you are satisfied - then you make the surface wet (not soaked)
let dry about an hour - then you sand again using a 240 -400 grit paper - just enough to take the roughness - if you do it to much ,youŽll have to start over.
Then you start oiling and waxing.

Yours - Chr.B.

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