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Hello all. I just started weapons training and I have a Jo and a Tanto. I had some adhesive left on my Jo after peeling off a sticker and ended up spreading it all over it while trying to clean it off. So I bought some lemon oil to clean my Jo. I didn't think of getting advice until now(oops!). I'm just wondering if it's a good idea to use lemon oil over the long term. I was also thinking of getting some Pledge or something like that to keep the surface slick to the touch(the adhesive made it really sticky to work with). Any comments?
Hi there, I'm not sure how to advise you on getting the adhesive off your weapons. When I began Aikido I purchased a jo, tanto, and bokken and was advised by my instructor to burnish my weapons with a dried soup bone. It places a nice shine on the wood and prevents it from splintering. In addition, it smooths the wood, a real pleasure to work with. Good luck.
Many of the wooden weapons that I have seen that come with adhesive decals also come with some light sealant finish. Light mineral spirits will remove the adhesive. If you have not already done so, try lightly sanding the surface of the weapons to remove this finish before using the lemon oil. I have used lemon oil for 11 years with my weapons and have been very pleased with the results.
Kingfisher Woodworks (Highly recommended to those of you out there considering purchasing new weapons) recommends gum spirits of turpentine to penetrate and tung, linseed or commercial oils like Watco as a preservative.
Hope this helps.
I had the same problem with the adhesive when I got my bokken, but it was on the handle so I just did exercises and cuts as usual and it went away... tung oil works well for keeping it "shiny", but not sure about how often... I have a friend at the dojo who makes bokken, I'll ask him tonight...
Wow. More help than I had expected. Thanks a whole buch gentleman. Much appreciated.
03-01-2001, 09:52 PM
I recommend sanding it down if it is a polyeurathane type finish (common on Century, etc. weapons, Not Bu Jin or Kingfisher) and refinishing with Tung oil. Linseed is also nice but more work to keep up. Try two coats of the tung to start. Sand with a very fine paper (220 & up) between. When it starts to get worn, sand it again and add another coat. Tung oil will build up to a more solid finish (at least the Formsby's that I use will) so I definitely recommend a light but thourough sand before coating. If the weapon gets sticky, try some 600 grit sand paper to help smooth it out. With Jo staffs you can do this nicely while practing Ski to block.
If you do sand down and use linseed oil, read the "care of you weapons" section of the bujin design website.
Ooooooh...I'm a little hesitant to put sand paper to it. Rek also suggested that. But I'll think about it. Thank you very much for your in-depth answer though. I'll definitely refer to it if I decide to do that.
03-02-2001, 01:53 PM
for removing stickers Goo off works the best that I have found. After using lots of differant finishes on the weapon that I have made I've settled to two. For wood products that I'm keeping I use my homemade Choji, mineral oil with clove oil added however this must be applied every so often as the wood dries out. For wood products that I'm giving to others I always use a few coats of Watco danish oil followed by one coat of Watco finish wax. This leaves a nice working finish that lasts. The only reason that I use Choji on my own weapons is that I practice outdoors rain or shine in my SMR class and oil Danish oil feels slimey in the pouring rain. For sanding 320-400 grit works real well for removing a finish
Thanks for the tips Tony. Very much appreciated.
03-11-2001, 12:55 PM
I heard from a sensei at a seminar that he has used lemon oil for a long time and has always been happy with it!
"many opponents surround me in attack, thinking of them as one, i do battle"
Sounds like a plan. Thanks Paul.
03-12-2001, 01:55 PM
Good suggestions on label removal, all.
Another good way to remove decals from almost any surface, including plastics and metal, is WD-40.
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