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well, it finally happened. My red oak bokken showed its $15 price tag after 10 months tonight... it finally splitnered, noticed after the class. Can anyone recommend a good (preferably on the not so expensive side) bokken? I'd like probably a shiro kashi or maple bokken, perhaps even hickory.
12-13-2000, 12:27 AM
I can't recomend any particular brand or wood type to you. (I got my current bokken at a yard sale)
However I can offer you this advice to you.
You get what you pay for.
I was just about to get a nice boken myself which was on order, but I was a day late picking it up and they sold it to someone else - so I can't tell you how good it is.
Timing is everything!
12-13-2000, 05:38 AM
My bokken went for about 50$ and if that is not to expensive for you than I strongly recomend Japanese White Oak. This one is not sharp if you know what I mean but instead has a fairly round cutting edge, which makes it even more durable against direct hit. More over It's little heavier than the averege our dojo and is prefered be people who have trained weapon a while, since it give you more responce, compared to light ones.
My 1$ and a ½.
Where did you get your bokken?
12-13-2000, 10:03 AM
Where did you get your bokken?
Sorry to say I got in a Swedish MA-store and I beleave they got got them from Japan
But anyway, Japanese White Oak is very good and not that expensive!
If you're in the US, try contacting Kiyota Company in Baltimore, MD. They sell nice white oak bokken from Japan priced very reasonably. I've been happy with the weapons that I've bought from them in the past.
You can find their contact information at:
12-20-2000, 01:01 PM
I use the kashimashin-ryu style sword, which is white oak, and I get them from Kiyota Company. That sword is a little cumbersome for suburi. Try Kingfisher Woodworks in VT for a great composite rosewood sword for suburi practice. They are a little more but worth it. It's x-mas just ask Santa.
12-20-2000, 02:09 PM
Two bits of advice,
One, of course, would be to e-mail me as I make them at a reasonable price. Style of blade can be chosen from two styles, one slightly straighter than the other. Materials range from Ipe, a hard brazilian wood, quite strong and heavy, to maple or hickory, even ash if I can get a good piece. My Ash supplier has been a little short lately.
e-mail to firstname.lastname@example.org
2. Read the ATM article about woods for bokken written by ?? from Kingfisher woodworks. It is on this forum somewhere.
3. ( ok I lied) I bought a nice jo from these people. It was well made and the price was right. Unfortunately I can't find the link. Mine is no longer affective. But the company is Kemco supply, in PA. Sorry I can't help on this more. They must have closed their website.
[Edited by Niadh on December 20, 2000 at 02:12pm]
thanks to everyone for their replies. I ordered a white oak daito from the Kiyota company Monday- it should be here by the end of the week.
12-20-2000, 05:11 PM
Happy Holidays Nick.
A Great present to yourself.
I would have ordered from you, had I seen your post sooner. Perhaps when this one breaks, neh?
Happy Hanukkah, all ;).
(oh, and I spose merry christmas and happy new year)...
12-20-2000, 08:37 PM
Thanks for the thought. I wish you the best of luck with this bokken, and hope it has a long and healthy life.
I couldn't tell you where to buy one because as a custom woodworker I make everything myself. I once made a full size automobile with all wooden parts. It had wooden wheels, wooden gears and pistons, wooden hoses and a wooden battery. Unfortunately it wooden start.
All levity aside, one thing of importance when purchasing or making wooden weapons is that wood has a grain pattern due to the annual growth rings, branches, etc. When wood is sawn it normally gets cut through these grain lines. This causes a compromise in structural integrity. In order to have a superior weapon the wood must be split along the grain. This way the wood will show you along which lines it is the strongest, and the chances of the final product splitting are minimized. The best way to do this is with a froe and mallet (available through most specialty woodworking stores), but it also works to start a split in the end of a log and then complete the split with the axe held with the handle parallel to and the head intersecting the length of the log. Then just gradually pry the wood apart.
[Edited by Ben on January 13, 2001 at 01:20pm]
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